When I moved to the Big Island in 2009, I told myself I was just taking a gap year. One year to slow down, try something new, and then move on. Thirteen years later, I’m still here — living in Honokaa, raising three daughters, and wondering how I ever imagined leaving.
Honokaa isn’t flashy. The old wooden sign at the entrance leans a little to one side, but the town behind it is full of quiet charm — the kind that doesn’t need to shout to be noticed. Coming down through the Ahualoa forest from Waimea, the trees open up and the view stretches all the way to the ocean. That sign still makes me smile every time.
A Street with Stories
Mamane Street is the heart of town. The storefronts are old — some from the 1800s — but they’re not frozen in time. This isn’t a staged version of “Old Hawaii.” It’s just… real. The buildings are full of small businesses run by people who live here and love this place.
Honokaa used to be a sugar town. The mill closed in the ’90s, but its history still runs deep — in the families, the mix of cultures, and the way people take care of one another. You can feel it in the air here, even if you don’t know the whole story.
What Life Feels Like Here
Mornings usually start with a cup of coffee — The “Lean-To-Farm” is a favorite, and the owners grow and roast their own beans. There’s a quiet routine to Honokaa that I’ve come to appreciate: slow mornings, familiar faces, small conversations that stretch longer than you planned.
There are a few great places to eat, including a local Italian spot, a bar with that old-school feel, and cafés where you’ll almost always see someone you know. The shops on Mamane sell everything from art and handmade clothes to fresh produce and zero-waste essentials.
My husband farms up mauka, and when I’m not helping him, I’m usually makai — swimming, diving, or just watching the light shift on the ocean. It’s a good balance. Our girls are growing up with dirt under their nails and salt in their hair. I wouldn’t trade that for anything.
What Brings Us Together
Sundays mean the Hamakua Harvest Farmers Market — a little bit of everything: local greens, honey, handmade goods, live music, and often dancing. It’s where you go to reconnect, stock your fridge, and catch up with people you haven’t seen in a while.
Honokaa’s events still surprise me. Western Week is the biggest — parades, rodeos, keiki events, the whole town showing up in boots and hats. There’s something beautiful about how people here lean into tradition, not for show, but because it matters.
The high school hosts all kinds of community events too — sports, performances, cultural celebrations. They’re open to everyone. That’s what I love most — it’s not hard to feel included here.
Places We Love Close to Town
Waipio Valley is just down the road — sacred, stunning, and steeped in history. Even if you only make it to the lookout, it’s worth the drive. Kalopa State Park is the opposite — cool, green, quiet. It’s where I go when I need a reset.
On the way to Hilo, you’ll see wide open pasture lands where sugar cane once grew. There’s something poetic about that — how this place keeps evolving, but still remembers.
Honokaa Feels Like Home
It took time for this place to sink into me. I didn’t come here expecting to stay. But little by little — the people, the land, the rhythm — it all became home.
If you’re thinking about visiting or even moving to this side of the island, I’d be happy to share what I’ve learned. You’ll find more on my blog — stories, tips, and a little of what life looks like from up here on the Hamakua Coast.
About Cassie
Cassie moved to the Big Island for a one-year adventure in 2009 — and never left. These days, she splits her time between helping on her family’s organic farm, raising her three daughters, swimming in the ocean, and guiding others through the home buying and selling process on the island. A former teacher turned real estate agent, Cassie brings a calm, educational approach to everything she does.
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