From the time I was 19 to 22 I was bodyboarding increasingly bigger waves on Oahu while I was stationed there in the Air Force. My first introduction to bodyboarding was at Makapu’u in 4-5 foot Hawaiian sized waves (8-10 foot any other scale). To say it was exhilarating would be the understatement of my life. I was addicted from day 1 as I paddled around on my $20 foam board and tried to catch a couple waves without fins or more than the 2 sentence instructions I got from my friend Bob.
I spent a couple hours in the water – catching a few waves that took me over 100 meters toward the beach.
I immediately went out and bought a $120 RUSS TURBO board in Waikiki, some Makapu’u fins and spent a few hundred hours in the water bodyboarding and having the time of my life over the years.
Later in Florida I’d chase hurricane swells -usually on the east coast – and almost drown a couple times there from not knowing the surf – and from the choppiness and inconsistency of it all. Still fun – but not like Hawaii’s waves.
In 2002 I moved back to Hawaii for 2 years and renewed my passion for my favorite activity in the entire world… Bodyboarding is that for me – it’s the ultimate fun… I hope you try it someday – safely.
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